Bringing a puppy home is one of the happiest days of the year — and one of the most chaotic. The difference between a stressful first week and a smooth one is almost always preparation: the right supplies ready, a vet booked, a potty plan in place, and the paperwork sorted before the puppy walks through the door.
Use this checklist as a single reference from the week before arrival through the end of the first month. If you adopt from a shelter or buy from a breeder, ask for the puppy’s current food, vaccination records, and health paperwork before pickup day.
Before the puppy arrives: puppy-proof the house
Puppies explore with their mouths. Before arrival, secure or remove:
- Electrical cords, chargers, and loose cables
- Medications, vitamins, and supplements (locked cabinet, not a low shelf)
- Cleaning products, laundry pods, and chemicals
- Small swallowable objects: socks, hair ties, children’s toys, coins
- Toxic plants — check each houseplant’s safety for dogs and move risky ones out of reach
- Trash cans — use lids or store bins inside a cabinet
- Open stairways, balconies, and pools — block with baby gates
Pick one room as the puppy’s starting area — a kitchen or other easy-to-clean room works well. A smaller space makes potty training faster and keeps the puppy away from hazards you missed.
The complete new puppy supplies checklist
Feeding
- Puppy food — the same brand the breeder or shelter was feeding, for the first 1–2 weeks; switch gradually over 7–10 days if you change.
- Food and water bowls — stainless steel or ceramic; non-slip base helps.
- Measuring cup — follow the food bag’s guidelines for weight and age.
- Small, soft training treats — pea-sized, for potty successes and training sessions.
Sleep and comfort
- Crate — sized for expected adult weight, with a divider panel (see crate table below).
- Crate pad or bed — washable. Accidents will happen.
- Blanket — one with the breeder’s or mother’s scent can help the puppy settle, if the breeder can provide one.
Training and safety
- Collar — lightweight, adjustable; fit two fingers underneath.
- Leash — standard 6-foot leash (retractable leashes make training harder).
- ID tag — with your phone number; order before the puppy comes home.
- Baby gates — to block stairs and off-limits rooms.
- Exercise pen (optional) — a safe play area when you cannot supervise.
- Poop bags — buy more than you think you need.
- Enzyme cleaner — regular cleaners may not remove the scent that draws a puppy back to the same spot.
Grooming
- Puppy shampoo — gentle, pH-balanced for dogs (not human shampoo).
- Brush — matched to your breed’s coat type.
- Nail clippers — start handling paws gently from day one.
- Toothbrush and dog toothpaste — never use human toothpaste for a dog.
Toys and enrichment
- Chew toys — 2–3 textures (rubber, rope, plush).
- Puzzle / food-dispensing toy — for mental stimulation and crate time.
- Teething toys — rotate toys to keep them interesting.
No toy is indestructible: check for loose pieces and supervise chewing, especially with rope toys and anything with squeakers or stuffing.
Health and vet
- First vet appointment — booked within the first week.
- Emergency vet number — saved in your phone, including the nearest after-hours clinic.
- Pet insurance research — compare plans early; premiums are generally lowest when a dog is young and healthy.
- Pet folder — one place for vaccination records, vet details, and adoption or purchase paperwork.
Crate sizes: what to buy
A crate that is too large lets a puppy potty in one corner and sleep in the other, which slows house training. A crate that is too small is uncomfortable. The puppy should be able to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably. A divider panel solves the growth problem: buy for adult size and move the divider as the puppy grows.
| Expected adult weight | Typical crate length | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Up to 25 lb (small breeds) | 24 inches | Most small companion breeds |
| 26–40 lb (medium breeds) | 30 inches | Check breed height as well as weight |
| 41–70 lb (large, e.g. Labrador) | 36–42 inches | 42 inches suits most Labs |
| 71 lb+ (extra-large, e.g. German Shepherd) | 42–48 inches | Size up if between sizes |
Always check the crate manufacturer’s size chart against your breed’s expected adult size. For a day-by-day introduction plan, see our guide on how to crate train a puppy in 7 days.
The first 24 hours
- Potty spot first. Take the puppy to the same outdoor spot on arrival; reward with praise and a small treat when the puppy goes.
- Keep it calm. Limit visitors for the first few days.
- One room first. Let the puppy explore the starting room, not the whole house. Expand access gradually.
- Show the crate, water bowl, and potty spot. Learning those three places is the puppy’s first job.
- Start the routine immediately. Same times for feeding, potty, play, and sleep from day one.
- Expect crying the first few nights. Keep the crate in or near your bedroom, keep lights low, and comfort calmly without turning night into playtime.
The first 7 days: a daily rhythm
| Time | What to do |
|---|---|
| Wake-up | Potty spot, then breakfast |
| After breakfast | Potty again (usually within 15–30 minutes of eating) |
| Mid-morning | Short training session (5 minutes), play, potty |
| Midday | Lunch (3 meals a day is common under 4–6 months), potty, nap |
| Afternoon | Play, gentle socialisation, potty |
| Evening | Dinner, potty, calm play, last water an hour or two before bed |
| Bedtime | Final potty trip, then crate |
Take the puppy out after every meal, nap, and play session, and whenever the puppy sniffs the floor or circles. Puppies under 12 weeks often need a potty break every 1–2 hours while awake. If you work away from home, arrange a midday break — a neighbour, family member, or dog walker — because a young puppy cannot safely hold it for a full workday. Sleep is a big part of this rhythm: puppies sleep far more than adult dogs, so see our puppy sleeping schedule for age-by-age sleep needs and nap rules.
Vet care and vaccinations: what to expect
Book the first vet visit within the first week, even if the puppy seems healthy. The vet checks the puppy’s overall health, reviews the vaccination record, discusses food portions, and sets the vaccination schedule. For the full visit-by-visit timeline, see our puppy vet visit schedule.
The AKC’s general guide for the first year is: distemper and parvovirus at 6–8 weeks; DHPP (distemper, adenovirus, parainfluenza, parvovirus) at 10–12 weeks; DHPP plus rabies at 16–18 weeks; and boosters at 12–16 months, with further boosters on your vet’s schedule after that. The AKC notes there is no single schedule for every dog — location and individual risk factors matter, and some dogs do not need every optional vaccine. Optional vaccines (such as Bordetella, influenza, leptospirosis, and Lyme disease) depend on lifestyle and region, so the final decision is between you and your veterinarian. (AKC — Puppy Vaccination Schedule)
Ask your vet at the first visit about flea, tick, and heartworm prevention and when to start each; spay/neuter timing for your breed; and microchipping.
Costs: prices vary widely by city and clinic. As a planning range, the AKC notes the core-vaccine series can average around $75–$100, and a rabies vaccination is usually around $15–$20, with some clinics including rabies in the visit cost. Ask your clinic for an itemised estimate at the first visit.
Training foundations (start in week one)
Start training early — the AKC’s core advice is to begin training as soon as the puppy arrives. (AKC — Puppy Training) Keep sessions short, positive, and frequent:
- Name: say the puppy’s name; reward when the puppy looks at you.
- Sit: lure with a treat; reward the moment the puppy sits.
- Come: reward every recall — never punish a slow one, or the puppy will learn that coming back is risky.
- Crate: build the crate as a calm, rewarding place with meals and quiet chew time inside. Never use it as punishment.
- Potty: reward at the potty spot every time. Clean accidents calmly with enzyme cleaner and review the schedule — most accidents mean the puppy needed a break sooner.
- Bite inhibition: redirect mouthing to a toy; if hard biting continues, end the game calmly for a moment. For step-by-step techniques, see how to stop your puppy from biting.
Socialisation starts now too: gentle, positive exposure to sounds, surfaces, people, and (once your vet advises it is safe) healthy, vaccinated dogs.
US state laws every new puppy owner should check
Dog-owner laws are set at state, county, and city level, so exact rules depend on where you live. Check your state and local animal control website. The four areas below apply almost everywhere in some form:
1. Rabies vaccination. Most states require regular rabies vaccinations, and the AKC notes rabies vaccination is required by law across the United States, with booster timing set by each state. Keep the rabies certificate in your pet folder — shelters, groomers, boarding facilities, and licensing offices all ask for it. (AKC — Puppy Vaccination Schedule)
2. Dog licensing. Many cities and counties require a dog licence, often tied to proof of rabies vaccination. Fees and renewal periods vary by locality, and some places charge less for spayed/neutered dogs. Search your city or county animal control site for “dog license.”
3. Leash and at-large laws. Most cities require dogs on a leash in public and prohibit dogs running “at large” outside designated off-leash areas. Fines vary by locality.
4. Breeder/shelter paperwork. Keep the adoption contract or purchase paperwork, vaccination records, and any health certificate. If you move between states, check whether the new state or county has different rabies, licensing, or registration requirements — do not assume old paperwork automatically transfers.
A few states also have extra consumer-protection rules for pet sales. If you bought from a breeder, ask the breeder and check your state attorney general or animal control site for what applies in your state. When in doubt, your vet and your local animal control office are the two most reliable sources.
First-year costs: a planning range
| Item | Typical first-year range (US) |
|---|---|
| Initial supplies | $200–$500 |
| First vet visit | $100–$300 |
| Full first-year vet care + vaccine series | $300–$800+ (varies by region) |
| Food | $300–$700+ (varies by breed size and food type) |
| Rough first-year total | $1,500–$3,000+ |
Planning estimates, not quotes. Large breeds, expensive cities, and unexpected vet visits can push costs higher.
Frequently asked questions
What do I need before bringing a puppy home?
A crate, bed, bowls, puppy food, collar, leash, ID tag, training treats, waste bags, grooming basics, and enzyme cleaner — plus a booked first vet visit and a puppy-proofed starting room. The AKC’s new puppy checklist covers the same essentials: harnesses, leashes, sleeping spaces, chew toys, training treats, dental care, housetraining supplies, and feeding essentials. (AKC — New Puppy Checklist)
When should a puppy first see the vet?
Within the first week. The vet checks the puppy’s health, reviews vaccination records, and sets the vaccination and parasite-prevention schedule.
Do I need a licence for my dog?
In many US cities and counties, yes. Rules, fees, and renewal periods are local, and licensing is often tied to proof of rabies vaccination. Check your city or county animal control website.
What is the most important thing to do on the first day?
Take the puppy straight to the potty spot, reward success, then let the puppy explore one room calmly. Start the feeding, potty, and sleep routine from day one — puppies learn routines faster than they learn rules.
Sources
- American Kennel Club — New Puppy Checklist: https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/puppy/new-puppy-checklist/
- American Kennel Club — Puppy Vaccination Schedule (shots, timeline, costs): https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/health/puppy-shots-complete-guide/
- American Kennel Club — Puppy Training: https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/training/puppy-training/